A target with a date
Name the goal, set the amount, choose the deadline. A savings target without a date is a wish, and it never gets funded first.
Savings goals
Saving in a notes app works right up until the number stops being trustworthy. You edit the total, then edit it again, and three months later you cannot say whether it is short because you missed a month or because you typed it wrong once.
In Casshi a goal's total is not a number you maintain. It is the sum of the contributions you logged, worked out from them every time it is shown, so the figure on the card and the history behind it cannot disagree.
Name the goal, set the amount, choose the deadline. A savings target without a date is a wish, and it never gets funded first.
Adding to a goal records a contribution rather than overwriting a total, so the balance always has a paper trail behind it.
See every top-up and every withdrawal with its date. If a month was light, you can see which one and why.
A progress bar against the target, and the amount still to go. No mental arithmetic between the card and the goal.
The deadline sits alongside the total, so a goal that is 60% funded with three weeks left looks different from one with a year.
A house deposit and a holiday fund each keep their own target, deadline and history instead of sharing one pot you have to divide in your head.
The obvious way to build a savings tracker is a field on the goal that you add to. It is also the way that quietly breaks. Adding a contribution becomes two writes: insert the record, then update the total. If the second one fails, or runs twice, or two devices do it at once, the total and the history stop matching and nothing in the app knows which is right.
Deriving the total from the contributions removes the problem rather than guarding against it. There is only one write, the sum is calculated on read, and there is no second copy of the truth to fall out of sync.
It also makes corrections safe. Delete a contribution you entered twice and the total drops by exactly that amount, with no repair step and no risk of correcting it twice.
Start from the deadline and divide. A target of two hundred thousand in ten months is twenty thousand a month, and that number either fits in what you have left after a normal month or it does not. Checking that before you start is the difference between a goal and an intention.
If it does not fit, move the date rather than the amount. A slower goal that gets funded every month beats an ambitious one that gets skipped in month two and abandoned in month three.
This is where the budgeting side earns its place. Once your monthly limits reflect reality, the amount you have available to save stops being a guess, and the savings goal stops being the thing that absorbs whatever happens to be left over.
Splitting your saving across many goals feels organised and behaves badly. Each one gets a small contribution, none of them reach a milestone, and the whole thing loses momentum because nothing ever finishes.
An emergency fund plus one thing you are looking forward to is a good default. Fund them in that order, finish one, then start the next. The free plan's cap on active goals is set with roughly that in mind.
Nothing is deleted for being over a limit. Goals beyond the allowance become read-only, keeping their history visible, until you are back under the cap or on a paid plan.
Casshi records, it does not hold. Your savings stay in whatever account, envelope or committee you already use, and the app tracks the amount and the history so you can see progress without logging into anything.
That also means the tracker is only as honest as the contributions you log. The upside is that it can follow money in places no bank feed reaches, which for a lot of people is where saving actually happens.
Getting started
Four steps, and the arithmetic is done before you commit to anything.
Specific beats vague. An emergency fund or a deposit gets funded; miscellaneous savings does not.
Divide one by the other and see the monthly figure. If it does not fit your month, push the date out now.
Record it as money is set aside. The total is the sum of these, so it stays right without any maintenance.
If the goal keeps getting skipped, the budget is the thing to change, not the goal.
Questions
Short, direct answers, and none of them promise anything the app does not already do.
Work backwards from the date. Divide the target by the number of months you have and check that figure against what you actually have left after a normal month of spending. If it does not fit, move the deadline rather than the intention.
Fewer than feels satisfying. Two or three goals get funded; seven get a token contribution each and none of them finish. Casshi's free plan caps active goals partly for that reason, and going over the cap never deletes anything.
Yes. Each goal has its own name, target amount, deadline and contribution history, so a house deposit and a holiday fund never get muddled into one balance you have to mentally divide.
Record it as a negative contribution. The goal total moves with it and the withdrawal stays in the history, which is more useful than quietly editing a number down and forgetting why it moved.
No. Casshi is a record, not a bank or a wallet. Your money stays wherever you keep it, and the app tracks what you have set aside and how the total got there.
Yes, within the free plan's limit on active goals. There is no card at signup and no expiry date, and every account currently has Plus-level access during the open beta.
Keep reading
Same account, same data. These pages cover the parts of the app people usually come looking for next.
One goal, one date, one contribution a month. That is the whole system, and it is free to run.
Free plan · No card required · Delete your account any time